early blight on tomatoes tendingmygarden

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Remove and destroy affected plants at the end of the season.ĭifferent kinds of tomato blight and how to tell them apart.

Stake tomato plants for better circulation.

Mulch with black plastic or landscape fabric to prevent fungus from spreading up onto leaves.

Water the soil – not the plants – to prevent splashing.Give tomato plants extra space (more than 24 inches) to let air to move among leaves and keep them dry.Plant tomatoes in a raised bed to improve drainage and prevent diseases from spreading.Plant disease-resistant hybrids to strengthen your plant’s chances of being blight-free.Spores can be dormant in the soil for several years. Other diseases (such as late blight, Septoria leaf spot, and gray leaf spot) can also be controlled by these biofungicides and fungicides, so application is multi-purpose. You may also choose Mancozeb or Maneb, although these have longer wait times before you can harvest tomatoes safely than does chlorothalonil. Some gardeners prefer chemical fungicides, the best of which for tomatoes is chlorothalonil (sold as Fungonil, Daconil, or under other brand names. Or you can treat it organically with a biofungicide like Serenade. You can apply until the leaves are dripping, once a week and after each rain. Treat organically with copper spray, which you can purchase online, at the hardware store, or home improvement center. Treat it as soon as possible and on a schedule. Once blight is present and progresses, it becomes more resistant to biofungicide and fungicide.Remove and destroy infected leaves (be sure to wash your hands afterwards).The best control measure for tomato blight is prevention (see below).

Early blight on tomatoes tendingmygarden